Lessons Learnt

Well I decided to put my big boy pants on recently and go out to the cliffs for a ‘look’ . What i got was a bit more than I wished for! Paddling out the boys were getting some BEASTS of waves. Top to bottom barrels, heavy barrels….

I know a lot of people say they are ‘humbled’ by big waves. Well to be honest, they scared the shit out of me! I hung about the shoulder watching the boys sus out the take of spots, trying to learn the ins and outs, do’s and donts. I was just growing a few balls, thinking that, ‘yea i can go for one, its not too bad’ until suddenly I found myself paddling for the horizon…

A set was on the way, and with all my faffing about I was not in a great spot… the wave just started to break as I dove through it, but it was too late. I got dragged back over the falls and given a nice spanking. So with a nice blooded face I thought it would be best I get the feck out of there.

So yes lesson learned, the cliffs is a Heavy mother fucker on low tide


Worst beating of the day about to happen….. 2 wave hold down, not for the faint-hearted out there!

German birthday boy gets his pressie

Big and Empty

Coming home


The wall

Pinching on exit



Tearaght sunset

Written by ch in: Chewyblog,Landscapes,Waves,winter |

Design: Sean Lordan